Globus Cork - Floating Floor Installation Guide
Globus Cork - Floating Floor Installation Guide
The term "Floating floors" means that the floor is not secured to the
subfloor but rather it "floats" on top. There needs to be a roughly ½"
space from walls and other fixed objects. Floor areas greater than 900
sf with dimensions greater than 30 feet in either direction will need
an expansion gap. Transitions between 2 rooms using the floating floors
will need an expansion gap also. If you are installing in a possibly
damp area, you'll need to put down a moisture vapor barrier first.
Floating floors can be laid down on top of most hard surfaces such as
vinyl, wood flooring or ceramic tiles. Do not install over carpeting.
The subfloor must be flat, even and dry. Variations in the subfloor
should not exceed 1/8" over 8ft. Voids should be filled or you could
feel a bounce in the floating floor over a void area. If laying on top
of hardwood floors, the planks are normally laid across the existing
floorboards. All concrete and ceramic subfloors require a moisture
barrier against dampness. This includes concrete floors topped with
vinyl or other resilient flooring. Use a moisture barrier film with a
minimum thickness of .01 inches and allow for at least 8 inches overlap
between sheets before taping. Run the film up the walls at least 2
inches. You'll trim it down after you affix the quarter round or
Acclimate the snap-lock cork planks. Remove the plastic wrapping from
the boxes to allow the warm room air (above 60 degrees) to circulate
around the planks for a minimum of 2 days. As a wood product, cork
responds to changes in temperature and humidity and you'll want the
product to be stabilized to the room before installing it.
Rubber Mallet or Hammer
Tapping Block or Floating Floor Scrap
Hand, Jig, Table or Circular Saw
Deep Dish Paint Pan
9" Shurline-style Pain Pad
25' Tape Measure
Laying the Planks:
1. Begin by laying down the plank in the corner of the room. Place
the plank a ½" away from both walls at the corner. Using a ½" spacer
will help maintain proper flooring placement.
2. You are making the first long row of flooring in the room with the
planks locked short end to short end, not side to side. Snap the next
plank into the end of the first plank by placing it in at an angle
(roughly 25 degrees) and then pushing it down and in until it locks
flat and tight with no gap. Wiggle the new plank as you push down and
into the first plank at the same time. You can tap it with the side of
your hand or use a small tapping block to lightly tap the plank as you
push it down and inward. Do not hammer directly on the clicking ridges
or the cork as they will break. You can use a scrap piece of the
floating floor panel as a tapping block also.
3. When you reach the end of the first row of flooring where you need
to cut the plank, turn the last plank face down, slide it to a ½" away
from the wall and mark the back of the plank for your cut.
4. Place the plank to be cut on a work surface and cut it to size using
the mark you just made. You can cut the plank with a hand saw, table
saw or circular saw.
5. Place the newly cut piece into place in the starting row and then
use the remainder of the cut plank to start the 2nd row of flooring.
Use this piece only if it is at least 10" long. Otherwise cut a new
plank in half and use a half to start the 2nd row. Leave a ½" gap from
the wall just like the first row and snap the side of the plank into
the side of the plank of the first row. Snap the plank by placing the
long side of the plank into the long side of the plank of the previous
row at an angle of roughly 25 degrees. Push down and in on the angled
plank until it is flat on the floor. The planks should snap tightly
together with no gap and lay flat. Each row of planks should be
staggered or offset from the previous row a minimum of 10", never a
straight grid pattern. If necessary, use a small tapping block and
small hammer to tap the plank into place so the end fits tightly into
the end of the previous plank. Do not hammer directly on the snap-lock
fiberboard ridge - always use a tapping block.
Continue laying the rows of planks. When laying the last row, measure
and cut the planks to fit but leave a ½" space between the last row of
planks and the wall.
7. Top Sealer Coat: After laying the floor planks, vacuum up any dust
and dirt. Then roll of the top sealer coat of finish on the floor. Move
methodically so as not to miss any spots. Do not move back and forth in
a scrubbing motion but rather make a single pass the floor using plenty
of finish. Finish can be applied with the use of a 3/8" foam roller.
Best results is to use a pull foam applicator. This will prevent air
bubbles from possibly forming. (Shureline 9" applicator pad works very
8. Let the finish dry for 4 hours before walking on it without shoes.
After 24 hours, you can walk on the tiles with shoes. Do not use
rubber-soled shoes on the new floor for several days as this might
cause smudging to occur during the hardening period. Final hardness is
achieved after 8 days. Protect the floor with masonite or paper if
construction is continuing in the room. Do not cover with plastic or
carpet during the curing process. Do not clean with water for 2 weeks.
9. Install quarter round or baseboards around the room to cover the ½" gap between the floating floor and walls.
Vacuum regularly. For more thorough cleaning use a damp mop with a mild
Ph-balanced dish soap such as Liquid Joy. Use only a Damp mop, not a
wet one, to prevent water from seeping between the planks. Too much
water could cause the middle fiberboard to swell. Do not use abrasive
or ammonia-based cleaning products.